Low grit numbers (below about 600) are coarse and repair damaged edges, around 1000 is the main sharpening grit, 3000 to 6000 refines and polishes, and 8000 and above gives a mirror finish. Most kitchen knives need just two stones: a 1000 and something in the 3000 to 6000 range. Add a coarse stone only if your knives are chipped or neglected.
The grit chart
| Grit range | Job | Use it when | Skip it if |
|---|---|---|---|
| Below 600 (coarse) | Repair, reprofile | Chips, a broken tip, a very dull edge, or changing the angle | Your knife is only slightly dull |
| 800–1500 (medium) | Sharpen | Every normal sharpening; the workhorse stone | Never; everyone needs one |
| 2000–4000 (fine) | Refine | Smoothing the 1000 scratch pattern for a cleaner, longer-lasting edge | You like a toothy edge for tomatoes and crusty bread |
| 5000–8000 (polish) | Polish | A refined slicing edge, especially on Japanese knives | You use softer Western knives for heavy work |
| 10000+ (ultra fine) | Mirror finish | Razors, woodworking tools, enthusiasts | You cook at home; you won't notice the difference |
These ranges are standard, widely used guidance rather than our measurements. Product details below come from Amazon listings checked October 3, 2026. How we research.
Grit progressions for real knives
You don't need every grit. Skip too far between stones and the finer stone takes forever to remove the coarser scratches; a jump of roughly 2x to 6x is common.
| Situation | Progression | A kit that matches |
|---|---|---|
| Kitchen knives, normal upkeep | 1000 → 6000 | Sharp Pebble 1000/6000 or King KW65 |
| Neglected or chipped knives | 400 → 1000 (→ 3000+) | Sharp Pebble 400/1000 |
| Full range in one kit | 400 → 1000 → 3000 → 8000 | Intelitopia 400/1000 + 3000/8000 |
| Japanese knives, splash-and-go | 1000 → 5000 | Shapton Kuromaku A-set |
| Pocket and outdoor knives, fast | Coarse → extra-fine diamond | SHARPAL 162N 325/1200 diamond |
Toothy vs polished edges
Coarser finishes leave microscopic teeth along the edge that grab and saw, which helps on tomato skins, peppers and crusty bread. Polished edges glide and push-cut cleanly, which helps with fish, herbs and fine slicing. Neither is wrong. Many home cooks are happy stopping at 1000 to 3000; Japanese-knife owners often go to 6000 or 8000.
Why grit numbers don't always match
Grit numbers aren't universal. Japanese water stones generally use the JIS scale, many Western abrasives use different standards, and some brands use their own numbers. A few things to keep in mind:
- Micron sizes are the most reliable comparison. When a maker lists microns, use them. SHARPAL, for example, lists its 162N plate as 325 grit (45 micron) and 1200 grit (12 micron).
- Diamond cuts faster than its number suggests. Diamond is far harder than the aluminum oxide or silicon carbide in most water stones, so a diamond plate often feels coarser and cuts quicker than a water stone with the same number.
- Guided-system hones use their own scales. Lansky's Deluxe kit, for instance, lists its hones as extra coarse (70), coarse (120), medium (280), fine (600) and ultra fine (1000).
- Soft vs hard stones. Soft stones release fresh abrasive quickly and cut fast but wear and dish sooner; hard stones last longer but can feel slower.
Water stones, oil stones and diamond plates
| Type | Lubricant | Strengths | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|---|
| Water stone (synthetic) | Water (soak or splash) | Fast cutting, wide grit range, pleasant feedback | Wears and needs flattening |
| Oil stone (e.g. Arkansas, India) | Honing oil | Hard and slow-wearing, traditional for outdoor knives | Slower; oily cleanup |
| Diamond plate | Dry or water | Very fast, stays flat, handles very hard steels | Coarser feel; fewer very fine options |
For a deeper comparison, read whetstone vs diamond stone.
Which grits for which knife
- German and Western kitchen knives: 1000 for sharpening, 3000 to 6000 to finish. Softer steels don't gain much from going past about 6000.
- Japanese kitchen knives: 1000, then 5000 to 8000. Their harder steel holds a finer polish, which suits push-cutting and slicing.
- Pocket and EDC knives: a coarse diamond or 400 stone for reprofiling, then 1000. Many people stop at a medium-fine finish for a slightly toothy, grippy edge.
- Hunting knives: similar to pocket knives; a fine ceramic or 1000-plus finish followed by a strop keeps the edge cleaner when processing game.
- Serrated knives: flat stones don't fit; use a fine ceramic or diamond tapered rod. See how to sharpen a serrated knife.
How to tell the grit of an unmarked stone
Old or hand-me-down stones often have no label. You can make a reasonable guess:
- Feel: rub a wet fingertip across it. Coarse stones feel like sandpaper; fine stones feel almost smooth.
- Scratch pattern: make a few strokes with a knife and look at the bevel. Visible, deep scratches mean coarse; a hazy or reflective finish means fine.
- Color isn't reliable. Makers color their stones differently, so a white stone from one brand can be coarser than a gray stone from another.
- Oil or water? If the stone is dark and slick with old oil, treat it as an oil stone and keep using oil; don't switch to water.
After the stones: stropping
A leather strop loaded with a fine compound polishes the edge beyond most stones and removes the last of the burr. It's cheap and quick; see our leather strop guide. Then put your stones to work with how to use a whetstone, and check the angle chart for your knife.
The bottom line
If you buy one stone, make it a 1000/6000 combination like the Sharp Pebble 1000/6000. If your knives are in rough shape, start with a 400/1000 stone first. Everything above 8000 is optional for a home kitchen. Our best whetstone sets for beginners compares complete kits.
Grit ranges reflect standard sharpening guidance; product grits come from Amazon listings checked October 3, 2026. How we research · Affiliate disclosure